I'll pay you... I need it next week...

ok...but you have to replace my roughing gouge if the hickory wears it out (LOL).

Get to wooding.

Which design do you prefer for the post ends? This drawing is 1:1 representation, added a 3rd bead to make it look better balanced.

The lower one. In fact you can move the beads down a tad more and lengthen the arc on the bottom of the square some to make a smoother run in (ie: won't get a finger caught). Also a little rounder on the beads if you wish. Like it.

Cool, the extra taper will make it much easier to work the first bead pic was rough, will definitely round things more, and probably taper the initial parts of the main portion of the post more for a smother line, it’s a long stretch. Any idea how much of the max width you want to retain along the main portion?

In the center as much as possible.

Or do you want a gradual taper from center to bead?

That sounds right.

BTW, the post just fit my lathe. Took the full length to mount it. It’s never spun a piece that heavy, but it’s holding it firmly in place…First cut about to begin…wish me luck…8^)

Can you make the column look similar to this ;-)

The pic is cool, but remember you have a much longer piece. There’s more than 20 inches of taper. Another option (I’m not sure if I like the idea, looks) would be to place 2 large beads towards the center, duplicate the what your pic shows, then taper from these center beads to the 3 post end beads???

No beads in the middle. The pic was just to show the idea that at the center, and a symmetrical distance either side of center, it is as fat as possible and there is a gradual taper to the 1st bead. I would suggest that the fattest piece is around 6 ". ie:: 3" either side center. yes?

How's that 'chonk, chonk, chonk' ;-)

My hands and arms are killing me – Having lots of fear and fun…8^)

Ok, there’s some good news and some possible bad news.

Good news: I’ve gotten the post round where we want it round.
Bad news: The transition from round to square kept giving me trouble with tear out. There’s some wiggle room where there’s tear out but I’m going to leave that to the absolute last and get some extra advice.
Looks grand. a bit of filing here, a bit of sanding there. Who'd know ;-)

Don't forget I have a finisher coming to complete my kitchen so he can probably do a bit of fill magic if needed.

"Having lots of fear and fun…" ;-)

LOL…good thing this is the rough cut…after I’ve laid in the beads and taper it’ll get half a dozen grits applied at least . I’m even thinking about applying a sub-sealer, but it depends on the cure time. With it being dry’d to furniture levels, the grain isn’t as tight. It’ll be smooth to the touch when I’m done, but as in the pens, the grain will look rougher beneath the surface.

BTW, this is all that’s holding this monstrous piece of hickory in place…

monstrous? my cabinet maker called it a stick ;-)

LOL…I’m still an apprentice in comparison, hence my mighty little pens…8^)

Good thing I took a break to let my arms and hands rest…I was looking over the design and the beads were only half the size you specified (3/8” vs 3/4”)

I’ve redone the design for the end posts. I also allowed 1/8” between beads to work the tool. I’m not sure about my ability to work in such a narrow gap. This hickory is tough and my mini-spindle gouge chisel (for narrow places) may not be string enough. I’ll see if I can narrow the gap when I’ve done the first half of one bead.

Didn't notice that either. Looks good.

Ok…going to lay in the guidelines, then the initial grooves and round overs for each bead.

We may want to leave the finish until we (me or your cabinet maker) does the touch up/adjustment on the square ends (the corners where the tear out is), including properly rounding the transition.

Won't be able to leave the finish until after the touch up. I'd like to install it and then let the finisher at it. He doesn't come till after the granite is done and the post has to go in before. There are a couple places on the cabinets that the finisher will have to touch up but the cabinet maker has finished them from his perspective.

ok, guess I'll have to get them as close to finished as possible...8^)

I’ve placed in the guidelines for the beads and the 6in center section (ignore the center line itself). The attached gives you an idea. As you can see there will be a fairly long taper, so the angle from bead to 3in from center will be gradual rather a more rounded turn as in the hand drawings. The taper is only ¾” at most across 10 ¼” of wood.

Any changes you want to apply? Another bead at either end? Lengthen the center? Etc...

Looks great. 2 beads each end are enough. Center length is good. May even want to shorten it with the sanding so it blends well. ie: it doesn't have to be exactly 6".

Yep, the sanding will take the straight cylindrical look out of the center…8^)

The cabinet maker will apply the finish to the post. You need only get to a final sanded finish.

Oh good. That'll give us plenty of time and make my life easier.

I’ve attached a couple of pics of the post as it stands now, no pun intended.

This one shows half the post, including the beads, their separation, the curve into the base, and the taper towards the center of the post.

As you can see, I’ve tried (given my limited skills) to first simulate the bead-to-center curves of the column picture you sent previously. This way I can narrow the taper to close to desired.

I need your input on the lightly shaded area. As you can see, using a less gradual taper makes the column look long, thick, and strong (still needs smoothing along the taper before sanding). But based on our emails, I think you’d prefer me to flatten out the taper more, with a more gradual thickening from the bead to center (3 inches short of center).

And this picture shows the entire post thus far…

Looks brilliant. My wife seems to like it the way it is. We will pop in tomorrow afternoon to check it out and give any last minute updates... ;-)